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CROSSING CULTURAL LINES

A tourist's day at Ostend's Beach City.

I am trying to make the most out of my stay in Europe, while keeping readers abreast of the timely information on the lives of Ethiopians in Brussels.

This week, I would like to take my readers on a daytrip to the city of Ostend, presenting them with an opportunity to learn how some Ethiopian children, born and bred in Brussels, have crossed over the racial and cultural lines and integrated with Belgians and children of other nationalities. The children of Africans, Arabs or Puerto Ricans come to the sea to enjoy marine travels, by ferry boat or by swimming, at the shores of the North Sea.

Late Sunday morning in Brussels was a bit cloudy, but sunny weather seemed to be in the making. To our surprise, the weather at Ostend was eventually excellent for all holidaymakers making it our preferred destination. The bright sun was shining fully and we could not wait to drive down as soon as the children were ready.

Before we stepped out and closed the door behind us, we held our breath to listen to Sheger 102 FM Radio online. The weather woman delivered the daily report, Addis Abeba, Bahir Dar, Jimma and Harar were reported to be rainy, while Adama, Awassa, Dire Dawa and Mekelle cities were partly sunny, with possibilities of rain. Meanwhile, temperatures were more or less mild in Belgium.

Ostend is a beautiful coastal city, 115Km west of Brussels, and an important harbour on the shores of the North Sea in the Flemish speaking part of Belgium, also known as the Beach Lake City. Ostend was first founded as a harbour town in 1265, but was later ravaged by the Spanish conquering armies. A lengthy war discredited its importance as a fishing centre and trading port, leaving its legacy to Antwerp by the year 1722. But Ostend is still being used as an alternative port particularly for its connection with England.

Ostend can be accessed by road and rail from Brussels. The railway track was built in 1838.

Royal families from Spain, Great Britain and the Netherlands had frequently sailed to the old city of Ostend to enjoy the sea food and the shore’s sandy terrain, as well as the cosy nocturnal venues, including pubs and casinos.

Summer holiday makers from all over Europe travel to Ostend Beach City to enjoy the weekend stay eating fresh fish and shrimps, as well as Oysters cooked in all imaginable forms and mixes. The bars serve the best beverages available in Europe including French wines and Dutch beer. But parents and guardians travel to Ostend for the unquantifiable pleasure their offspring's get from frolicking in the waters, almost totally naked, and digging up the sandy landscapes.

Bezaye and Dubale are a married couple whose children, Nazrawi and Eldaah, were born in Brussels. The eight-years-old boy goes to St Michel’s School where there are other few Ethiopian children and other children of African origin. Mathias and Tarikua are an other Ethiopian couple and parents of Eyoel, eight, and Gelila, three. They all speak French but their parents have exerted all efforts to teach them Amharic, which they speak albeit at different levels of fluency.

Colour or race did not deter them from integrating with children of other nationalities. I have witnessed that Belgium is on the right track in encouraging the consolidation of a multi-cultural society if what I saw at Ostend beach last Sunday is manifested at other cities as well.

That morning my wife and I had joined the two couples and the children on the trip to Ostend. Matiwos drove the 115Km to Ostend, a city that had attracted my attention rather more for its splendour and its landscaping than anything else.

The six lane road, three lanes in each direction, is almost a point-to-point straight line with overpasses every now and then, up until we came to the railway station. The six lane highway is divided by a masonry wall to prevent cross-over by derailed vehicles.

Both sides of the highway are lined by trees and trimmed hedges. At every five kilometre distance there are petrol stations and motels. Drivers of heavy duty trucks can pullover for a break or refreshments, or even take a little nap if need be.

The terrain is flatlands sectioned into cultivation and grazing pasture. One could see some horses and livestock grazing or lying in the meadows near stables and typical farmhouses. These are very nostalgic scenes for Ethiopian eyes, which are well accustomed to rural settings. Every farmhouse and cottage is a one storey building, standing by a small shed with a ploughing tractor, a harvesting combiner and a pickup with motorbikes parked at some of these villas.

Every highway that links Belgium with neighbouring countries has street lights to make night travel less vulnerable to traffic accidents. Every inch of the highway is paved with concrete asphalt levelled in such a way that a driver could easily be lulled to sleep. After every few kilometres or so, one sees big green boards carrying signals such as speed limits, distances of highway crossings or junctions or other warnings. These signals are marked on reflective boards and placed so well that they cannot be missed by motorists.

Ostend is known to have grown and developed into a tourist harbour since 1816 when passenger and marine freight traffic grew. In fact, Ostend was built as the training centre for sailors and a town most favoured by King Leopold and members of the royal family. It was also the centre for horseracing and golf sports. On the international level, the Summer Olympics of 1920 had accelerated its tumultuous growth as an important harbour. All the social and economic benefits of the Olympic Games had trickled down to make Ostend an important gateway to prosperity.

The months of July and August are the periods when summer holiday tourists frequent the sandy shores of the Beach City. There are literally hundreds of multi-storey apartment buildings ready for lodging. There are also hundreds of ferries and light boats docked at the beach, ready for rent.

Ostend is also a centre for shooting films and holding concerts. There are quite a number of museums and public libraries where day travellers can visit. As we approached the shore, we could see a series of restaurants and cafés with their tables and chairs laid outdoors, filled with tourists of all colours and creed. There were special bicycles accommodating four people at one time, being used by children who were enjoying riding them on the brick pavements.

We had to walk a long way before we reached the shore proper. The children and their mothers changed their swimming outfits and were wading in the water as soon as they dipped their feet in the lukewarm water. The little kids came out of the sea finding greater amusement in playing with the fine sand. It was very clever of them to bring small spades and a pick axe.

The bigger ones joined their Belgian peer groups and were happily frolicking in the water. Sometimes, they were swimming until they were fatigued. Nazrawi, I was told, is one of the few students of his class who regularly wins prizes for his academic achievements. He also seems to have a knack for integrating with Belgian children with ease. He is also a member of the cub scouts.

Both parents told me that they have made many friends through their children. Bezaye says that she has been working in the European Trade Union's Confederation for over eight years now, and her experience can be taken as an example of how Ethiopians in Brussels easily integrate in a multi-cultural society. But she says that does not mean that all Africans are genuinely accepted by every individual. In fact, every time the politicians raise the issue of immigration during their political debates in parliaments, the wave of segregation seems to trickle down in the minds of some people.

Of course there is nothing sweeter than home, but the future lies in the hands of a multi-cultural society that is dependent on the upbringing and experience of children of today.

BY Girma Feyissa

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

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