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View From Arada  

Rushing to enjoy the last nibbles of meat before the longest period of fasting in the Orthodox Church gave Girma Feyissa a chance to reflect on the culture of eating at the numerous butcheries with restaurants attached. As those privileged enough to afford the last taste of a protein-rich meal enjoyed, the effect of the supply chain may present problems in the future.

Turning the Fast into a Feast

 

Followers of the Coptic Orthodox Church started the 55-day fasting season last week. Although many of them were in effect observing the abstinence from meaty meals a long time ago, forced by the exorbitant prices of beef and mutton, the fortunate gourmets in town seemed to make the best out of the last hours, feasting on raw and roasted meat. I was invited for lunch at a butchery-cum-eatery located near the Lideta Church.

Meat lover that I am, I was ashamed of myself for not knowing the place up to now. Of course I feigned like a regular just for face-saving.

I could never imagine that such a crowd of people would be daring to devour roasted beef under the scorching heat of the sun, never mind slicing raw meat publicly, particularly considering the vantage point of foreigners driving by.

Dozens of yellow-red big umbrellas were planted outdoors for diners. Eating any type of food outdoors, let alone roasted beef, was taboo in my days. I felt like age is strangely making me a desolate stranger to my culture in my hometown.

We arrived there at 11:30AM; I thought that was a bit too early by Ethiopian standards. I was wrong. There were crowds slicing and handing mouthfuls to their shying wives and little children. There were many diners finishing their meals and looking for toothpicks after washing. Plenty of vendors offered tissues for sale.

We managed to make it through the thick crowd and squeeze our king-size bodies into a little space in a corner which was supposed to be a route for the hurried waiters.

My host insisted that I accompany him to the butcher’s window so that I could point to the best chunk from where our share may be sliced. That was not necessary at all. There was nothing to discard unless one would rather prefer lean meat only.

We were lined up and kept inching forward until we came to the cashier, paid our bill of 54 Br per kilo and received the ticket on which a matching number with our plate was handwritten.

The chief cutter, dressed in snow-white overalls was so busy cutting chunks of lean and fatty meat from the suspended carcasses to spread it on the counter in front of him. He would now and then sharpen his carving knives skilfully and weigh according to orders; occasionally he would add bits to compensate and even out the cut meat.

Regulars call his name affectionately as if to give him a clue of favouritism of tit-for-tat in due time. We all seem to endorse the little corruption by our silence. We never grumble or complain for mishaps at such eateries. We take everything for granted.

The very look of the yellowish orange colour of the fatty meat hanging behind the causes salivation. You would patiently wait until he is done. There is an assistant located outside whose main duty is to strip and trim edges, put some knives in order and pass the tray inwards to the spicing department.

There, assorted condiments accompanied by loaves of bread and rolls of injera is placed partly covering the broondo (the tenderest cuts of meat). Unlike other eateries of similar class, the waiters are like the Arsenal squad, passing balls fast and swift. Bottled mineral water is the most preferred beverage ordered by many diners to take along with the raw meat.

With some excerptions now and then, the butchery does not serve take always in spite of the fact that a dozen oxen seemed to have been slaughtered. The exceptions are orders passed from vehicles parked along the road and conveyed through waiters. These are for 20 or 30Kgs wrapped in khaki papers, ported directly to the vehicles and placed under the hoods.

The special customers do not need to queue under the burning heat of the sun. Their money would bear those minor inconveniences. I closed my eyes and tried to draw parallels between the paupers sitting inside the nearby churchyard and waiting for alms of any kind. Would it ever occur to their minds the number of cattle taken away from the national pulling force just to quench the desires of the devouring rich here and abroad?

Environment scientists, nutritionists included in collaboration with the clergy may perhaps create a common forum to discuss finding ways and means of slaughter reduction.

Fasting meat may have economic virtues these days more than its religious rituals and health care. As a layman of religious rationale, I would think fasting would be more appropriate if you withstand temptations to eat and drink what you have whenever you want it and not abstain from eating what you do not have in the first place.

The haves however, have already started saving money for the Easter feast. It has now become common among friends and villagers to raise funds and buy livestock to share among members during big celebrations.

Judging by the tips we get from the media, several thousands of cattle are dying due to a sustained dry season. Concerned authorities are claiming that they are doing their level best to assist the situation and find ways and means to provide the remaining cattle with water and fodder. If timely steps are not taken, the next Easter holiday would heavily deplete our animal resource. The 54 Br per kilo price would even be taken to be cheaper then.

The clergy seem to discourage fish as an intake of Lent food. Some say that Jesus Christ had fed his followers and disciples with some fresh fish. Why people are encouraged to abstain from marine food is hard to understand.

What are the alternative food items we can resort to now that meat and fish are left alone? You may hasten to tell me about vegetables and fruits not knowing their prices. What if I tell you that a kilo of sunflower seeds cost nine Birr while edible oil has soared up to 25 Br per litre?

 

BY Girma Feyissa

 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 

 

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