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View From Arada  

Girma Feyissa this week reflects on the pleasure, price and politics of meat in the capital city. Meat consumption is on the rise, as are the prices, as a casual visit to his local meat market attests. Even his neighbour, enjoying the benefits of remittances from his daughter, is developing a taste for what was once only a holiday treat. Girma, however, points out that not everyone is enjoying the meat mania. In Addis, anyways, the difference between the haves and have-nots is increasingly whether they can or cannot afford meat. 
 

Of Beef & Mutton

The price escalation may be skyrocketing day by day. But what is dismaying is that consumers never seem to mind. This was the question raised by my friend, who noted the unusual passiveness of the market-goers.

 

"When people get wealthier, they start knowing food and make variations in their consumption pattern," said a friend of mine when asked why consumption and the price of mutton and beef increased these days. "In spite of the ever growing prices of sheep and cattle or the upcoming hyperinflation for that matter, I see people greedily purchasing chunks of beef or scores of rams, sheep and goats from the cattle market." My friend was emphatic in his statement.

"As a matter of fact, when demand for food increases, the norm is that supply also increases, although not so quickly unless there is some reserve food in stock. In the interim period, the price of the existing food in the market consequently shoots up," he stated. I did not know that this kind of academic argument could hold any water in the cattle market in our village. The facts on the ground reveal that the stronger the purchasing power of consumers, the greater the supply and the higher the price.

The other day I had accompanied my neighbor Moraga to the sheep stall at the back of the Belay Zeleke School compound. We stepped down from the taxi near the TOTAL Filling Station on the Godjam Road and had to walk some distance due west. We saw several vehicles parking on the gravel lane, which is too rough for motorcars to advance. Dozens of pestering brokers and porters crowded us, offering their services to select, purchase, carry or slaughter the animals and skin them. Some of them gave their word that they would buy the skins. Some consumers stood still to see the extension of the Wingate Ring Road under construction visible far away. Others were wondering why the Road Transport Authority did not consider upgrading this vital linkage.

About a year ago there was only one dealer of sheep and goats. Now on any regular day you will find as many as 20 or more packs of animals owned by as many dealers. During holiday season, they become almost countless as farmer-cum-traders come to town to sell their herds.

The price escalation may be skyrocketing day by day. But what is dismaying is that consumers never seem to mind. This was the question raised by my friend, who noted the unusual passiveness of the market-goers.

"It has almost turned out to be a question of survival of the fittest. Those who can afford the rising price acquire not only what they need, but also what they desire, whilst those who cannot afford to do so are knocked out of the game," he lamented. My friend appeared to have picked up one of those red books recently for want of a better thing to read. How did that old motto go? "From whom according to his ability, to whom according to his needs," was it?

His arguments may hardly make any indent in the outlook of modern day capitalism or liberalism if you like, but the hard fact is that the widening gap between the haves and the have-nots remains as pressing an issue as ever, whether we say it or not.

Moraga, a middle-aged shopkeeper, and his wife have lately began to lead a decent life, particularly since their daughter Rahima has been remitting some money every month through the Western Union money transfer system. We might, by way of passing, recognise that remittance has of late become one of the country's biggest earners of foreign currency. The annual remittance of foreign money is nearing the billion Birr mark, not even counting the amount transferred via kith and kin in ways that cannot be tracked.

Moraga is using the money quite wisely by the looks of things. He has repaired his house and bought some furniture including an old TV set. The family is now exploring food and consuming more varied and nutritional items, including meat and dairy. Once in a while the family, unlike previous years, enjoys fruits and vegetables. "Exploring food" is a term I inserted advisedly as most of us are only used to eating the same items, year-in and year-out. Some of us have now started consuming beef and mutton even during non-holiday seasons. Holiday meat consumption in this country is a way of life.

Last Monday Moraga bought a sheep to slaughter for the Eid Al-Adha, or the Feast of Sacrifice celebrations. Moraga's son Temam, a 10-year old student, was petting and grooming the 400-Birr ram a day before the poor animal was slaughtered. The sheep seemed to appreciate the grooming judging by its contented humming. At times Temam had to leave the sheep and run an errand for his mother. The sheep would then bleat. The boy seemed to have established such an affinity with the poor animal that he wept in protest against the killing of the animal.

The next day, the Eid Al-Adha Holiday, Moraga had to make the religious sacrifice much to the dismay of Temam, who wept as the sheep was crying in pain during the process. A little later, the young lad was huffing and puffing to blow up the sheep's bladder to make it a sizable balloon to play with. With a piece of string he tied the little balloon to a pole and spent much time playing with it. Moraga was carried away by the quality of the mutton and was repeating himself throughout the holiday afternoon. Truly speaking, the 400-birr sheep was hardly grown and would have been worth 150 birr some weeks back.

Generally speaking, the production of food in developing countries has increased significantly over the last 10 years or so, according to FAO statistics. Consumption has not only increased in volume but also in variety for the simple reason that people have grown wealthier. Secondly, the increase in population, particularly in the Sub-Sahara Region, is so immense that consumption as a rule must increase. Countries like China and India of course are experiencing a leap in the consumption of meat and dairy products.

Livestock production increases at the expense of deforestation in Latin America in particular and land degradation in many other developing countries where there is overgrazing of pastoral territories. In some countries, including Ethiopia, even grass is exported, not to speak of the illegal trade of livestock across borders. We have good reasons to complain about the price hike of beef, now selling for 45 Birr or more per kilo.

 

BY Girma Feyissa

 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 

 

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