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View From Arada  

Although the price of meat has more than quadrupled in the last few years, the Ethiopian society, still consumes meat – rare – as a matter of pride, prestige and a symbol of manhood. It was one of those things that I had missed most during my stay in Brussels. The history of the Kera shows the removal of the site from residential areas. While the products are much sought after, the smell, mountains of debris and the pests it attracts are not welcome traits at all.

Meat for the Market

 

The price of meat has long become very prohibitive. In the last few years, it has more than quadrupled and is nowadays selling at more than 80 Br per kilo not considering the most recent addition of the 15pc VAT applied at some popular butcheries. Many people find the price tag unbecoming for a country which is second to none when it comes to meat markets. Butchers try to put the blame both on the cattle dealers and the service-giving enterprises, the abattoirs.

For a casual observer, however, the slaughterhouses are, more often than not, camouflages used to give their illicit trade the cover of pretext. The slaying of cattle or herds of sheep and goats in backyards (especially during holidays and special occasions) is the rule rather than the exception.

The fact is that we live in a society where the consumption of meat, sliced and rare, is a matter of pride and prestige and taken as a symbol of manhood. As this is the case, one should not be surprised if some people take the law into their own hands and slay cattle wherever they find it convenient or at anytime they feel like doing it.

To be honest with my readers, eating meat – rare – was one of the traits that I had missed most during my stay in Brussels. In fact, I had hinted that I would be writing about it one of these days.

After having observed all the precautions taken in handling and preparing meat for sale, I thought it would be a duty on my part (as a columnist) to go to the cattle market, the slaughterhouses and the butcheries and portray their scenes.

I beg my readers to bear with me as I was forced to write in two parts. The first part focuses on the cattle market and the services rendered at the slaughter houses. The second part, revealed next week, attempts to describe what goes on inside a meat eatery including some of the characters therein.

My first visit took me to the Addis Abeba Abattoir Enterprise down at Kirkos Kebele where Anbessa City Bus No. 6 concludes its trip. A few decades ago, this locality was considered to be the suburb at the southern tip of the capital covered by a den of sorts.

The Amharic word Kera bears the connotation of a site where cattle or herds are slain en masse. The present site of the first modern abattoir is commonly referred to as Addisu Kera (meaning new abattoir). This connotes that there was a slaughterhouse preceding the present one. The previous one was located at a place close to the old palace.

The present site was established, 53 years ago (1949 Ethiopian Calander), with the objective of establishing the institution as far away as possible from the flourishing capital. The intention was to be rid of the foul smell, the canine population not to mention the flocking of scavenger birds.

As time went by, the city expanded in every geographical direction thus swallowing the once peripheral sites and making them epicenters. In fact, until very recently there were mountains of debris, bones and rotten residuals left to produce a most provoking smell that evidently polluted the air.

The boiling substance inside the compound was also a disgusting state of affair. It might well be remembered that about four decades ago, an engineer named Girma Alemu had invented and put into use a device to absorb the smelling vapour thereby containing it.

The stench from the mountains of debris would vary due to the reaction that takes place under the vagaries of varying weather. Although the problem has bean curbed by removing the debris and installing new machines, the decree to move the abattoir to a new site still holds.

Negussie Taddesse, commercial department head, was assigned by Damtew Abebe, general manager of the enterprise for the interview as he had other urgent matters to handle. I could not have received a person who was more affable and better versed with the business.

The enterprise, is not only a service-giving and government-tax-collecting enterprise. It also handles the slaughtering of herds of sheep and sells mutton, according to Negussie. Owners of butcheries and other organizations that purchase livestock bring them under the custody of the enterprise against a payment of a little more than 120 Br per animal including the delivery charge.

The abattoir slays about 800 to 900 livestock per day during normal periods. This number increases to over one thousand during Easter or similar holidays. The total number of staff is about 800 including offline services but increases during peak periods.

I asked Negussie to tell me if the economic downturn which was followed by the increase in price has affected the volume of the business. He responded that the service has shown a slight growth in recent times. He feels that this is due largely to the growing intensity of the control of illicit cattle trading along the borders of the country, illegal slaughtering in and around the capital, and of the new the condominium lifestyle.

The enterprise collects the hides and skins of the livestock slain and then sells it to the tanneries at an auction on behalf of the owners.

I had also paid a visit to the Kara Alo Abattoir S.C., 15 kilometres east of the capital. The slaughterhouse was first established by the Ministry of Agriculture with the help of international organizations like FAO. Later on, private owners founded a share company with the aim of enabling standardized and efficient services.

Yirefu Gabre is a middle-aged veterinarian who has been in the field for over 34 years working in government services all over the country. He is now the chief administrator and head of the administration department of the share company and has been working for the last 12 years in the same position.

After I was given a verbal briefing by Yirefu Gabre, I was shown around the various sectors of the abattoir still under progress.

There are eight fenced pens for the livestock to stay for a period of at least eight hours during which time the livestock get some rest after their long journey. Several inspections and thorough physical examinations are conducted by the veterinarians. Should the animals exhibit the slightest sign of malaise, they are marked and kept apart for further examination and diagnosis. Organs like the kidneys, liver, heart and pancreas are tested to certify the meat as edible or eliminate it if not.

The abattoir has a designed capacity for the slaughtering of about 900 cattle if they are the zebu breed but only 600 if they are hybrids or crossbreeds.

Animals are given identity numbers on their skin and led through a narrow protracted barrier to the slaying spot where they are first rendered unconscious (by stabbing the major arteries in their necks). They are then lifted up by an electronically operated hook thus exposing them to the sharp cutting knives. The head is cut off while the dripping blood is drained by only one person.

The hanging hooks serve as conveyances that move the animal from one expert to the next for the disassembling of organs. The main parts include Shint, Saligegne, Nikil and Hod Ika (stomach). The meat is then stocked in the delivery van.

My next article will follow up from here.

BY Girma Feyissa

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

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